From highly anticipated solo shows to exciting runway returns and fresh creative directions, these are the names giving us plenty to look forward to.
Fashion season in Lagos is never just about the clothes. There are the invitations everyone wants, the shows that spark fashion conversations, the familiar faces in the front row, and, inevitably, the collections that will make us reconsider our wardrobes. But beyond the excitement, there is something particularly interesting about this season. Some of our most established designers are choosing to command their own stages, others are returning to the runway after a relatively low-profile period, while a younger generation continues to challenge what contemporary African fashion can look like.
With Lagos Fashion Week and GTCO Fashion Weekend approaching, alongside independent presentations, our expectations are understandably high. Here are nine designers whose collections we are especially looking forward to.
Mai Atafo
Few Nigerian designers understand the theatre of fashion quite like Mai Atafo. His 2023 standalone presentation was an ambitious production featuring 83 outfits, 50 models and an extraordinary runway arrangement. Now, he is preparing another independent show, and expectations are considerable. Atafo has spent years perfecting the relationship between tailoring, sophistication and spectacle. His suits remain among the most recognisable in Nigerian menswear, but his womenswear deserves equal attention. The excitement this time is about how he intends to surpass himself, creatively and in the scale of the presentation.
Banke Kuku
Banke Kuku has built an instantly recognisable identity around expressive prints, beautiful fabrics and clothes that make dressing up feel enjoyable. Her pieces have become favourites among women who appreciate colour without sacrificing elegance. With a standalone presentation on the horizon, we are curious to see how she develops that signature aesthetic. Will she experiment with new silhouettes, introduce unexpected fabric combinations or take her print storytelling somewhere entirely different? Whatever direction she chooses, subtlety is unlikely to be the point.
Christie Brown
There is a particular sophistication to Christie Brown that makes the Ghanaian label consistently worth watching. Founded by Aisha Ayensu, the brand has developed a distinctive language of structured silhouettes, rich textiles and contemporary interpretations of African design. Its anticipated appearance at Lagos Fashion Week brings an exciting cross-border dimension to the season. Christie Brown understands how to make cultural references feel luxurious without becoming predictable. We are especially interested in the construction, styling and fresh ideas it will bring to the runway.
Lanre Da Silva Ajayi
Lanre Da Silva Ajayi has never been a designer to shy away from glamour. Lace, elaborate detailing, vintage influences and beautifully feminine silhouettes have long defined her work. Yet what makes LDA interesting is her ability to revisit these signatures without abandoning the identity she has spent two decades building. Her independent presentation is one to anticipate, particularly for anyone who appreciates the craftsmanship behind occasion dressing. We are hoping for the sort of collection that reminds us why fashion can still be wonderfully extravagant.
Fia
FIA has always appealed to women who enjoy making an entrance. Known for playful proportions, unconventional shapes and confident colour combinations, the label brings a welcome sense of fun to fashion. Its expected GTCO Fashion Weekend outing is particularly interesting because FIA represents a different approach to statement dressing: clothes that can be dramatic without taking themselves too seriously. We are looking forward to seeing how that creative energy translates into a complete runway collection.
House Of Marvee
House of Marvee is entering an interesting phase. Founded by Marvellous Olugu, the luxury label has earned attention for its intricate couture designs and elaborate craftsmanship. This season, however, brings a significant development: the planned debut of its ready-to-wear collection at GTCO Fashion Weekend.
Can the house translate its couture sensibility into pieces designed for a wider wardrobe? That is what makes this presentation particularly exciting. It could introduce an entirely new audience to the brand.
Bridget Awosika
Bridget Awosika has always occupied an interesting position in Nigerian fashion. Her aesthetic is distinctive, often favouring architectural shapes, fluid fabrics and an understated sensuality. Having maintained a relatively low runway profile for some time, her anticipated return to Lagos Fashion Week is one we are particularly curious about. Fashion moves quickly, but designers with a strong identity rarely need to chase every trend. The question is how Bridget’s design language has evolved during her time away from the spotlight.
Emmy Kasbit
Emmanuel Okoro has established Emmy Kasbit as a label that understands the relationship between heritage and modern dressing. His use of traditional textiles, contemporary tailoring and distinctive silhouettes has given the brand a recognisable identity. Last season, he described his collection as a rebirth, signalling a fresh creative direction.
With an off-site presentation expected this year, we are eager to see how that evolution continues. Emmy Kasbit is particularly good at creating clothes that feel culturally grounded without appearing restricted by tradition.
Kilentar
Michelle Adepoju’s Kilentar has become one of the most compelling labels to watch, particularly for its thoughtful approach to traditional craftsmanship. Handwoven textiles, intricate beadwork and modern silhouettes come together in pieces that feel both artistic and wearable. Her previous intimate presentation at Temple Muse demonstrated that a fashion show need not be enormous to make an impression.
With another off-site showing anticipated, we are interested in how she will continue exploring texture, technique and the possibilities of African textiles.
